Nov 272013
 

Stephanie and I are writing this, safe and sound, but very tired, in Barcelona, Spain.  This was certainly NOT one of the smoothest travel days we have had.  Here is the recap of the long duration flights….

Well the weather outside was frightful, and we were in it.  Today was our day of departure to fly to Atlanta, from Atlanta to Amsterdam, Netherlands, and then from there to Barcelona, Spain.  The weather was the worst we have seen in weeks, and of course, it was the worst in Atlanta, where many flights were being delayed.  Trying to be proactive, we called Delta to inquire about getting on an earlier flight to Atlanta in order to have a better chance of making the connection for the transatlantic flight to Amsterdam.  We were scheduled for 65 minutes between our arriving flight from South Carolina to Atlanta, and the departure from Atlanta to Amsterdam.  On a nice weather day, not a problem, but on a cold, rainy, foggy day, not so good.

The first person I contacted at Delta indicated it was not a problem to change, but something “had to be done manually” to change the ticket, so I was transferred to another person, who I had to re-inform about the issue, only to be told the entire booking would be re-ticketed at a new fare, for the small price of $3,000.  This was due to the fact that there were currently “no delays at any of the airports we were traveling to”.  This grateful offer was declined, and plan B was put into effect.  We decided to try the same strategy at the airport instead of on the phone.  We could see the weather was getting worse, and delays on the flights to Atlanta  from South Carolina, and back were getting delayed by as much as 35 minutes.

We headed to the airport about 2 hours early (thanks to Mom for the ride) to try and get onto a 1:40 PM flight instead of our scheduled 3:27 PM flight.  We were put on standby, but were also informed that this was a smaller regional jet flight, and due to the weather, they pilots had to carry more fuel and could not carry as much weight on the plane, passengers and baggage being the victims.  While waiting at the airport in South Carolina for the earlier flight, we were informed at the gate that flight coming from Atlanta was actually delayed by 40 minutes arriving in South Carolina.  So much for all of the additional between flight connection time!  Then, based on what we had been told, the plane could not accept any more stand-by passengers.  In fact, two persons on standby got on ahead of us, and then about 5 minutes later, they were coming back off, too much weight.

Fortunately, our original flight, also originating in Atlanta, had left only about 5 minutes later than scheduled, and by this time, was scheduled to depart South Carolina only about 45 minutes later than the ‘earlier” standby flight, with all of its delays.  We thought all was looking good, and maybe we would make it on the original flights without any issues.    Not.

We got on the plane in South Carolina, looked like we were set for an on time departure, and then we were caught in the dreaded “gate hold”, meaning we were being held at the gate in South Carolina in order to make a specific time slot going into Atlanta – weather based control.  The 65 minutes we were scheduled to have between flights in Atlanta was counting down, reduced by 25 minutes of gate hold time.  We actually did hold tot he delayed takeoff time, and made it to Atlanta, but I believe we landed on a runway closer to Alabama than to the Atlanta terminal, after a LONG taxi, we arrived at the terminal, de-planed, and  rushed from Terminal B to Terminal F, the international terminal.  We made it to the gate as the last of the boarding passengers was loading.  Fortunately, even though we were near the back of the plane, and would have been loaded fairly soon in the boarding process, we still had some overhead bin room available for our three different carry on/personal bags.  Since it had been a rush to get to the connecting plane to Amsterdam, we were now just hoping our checked baggage would also make it.

At this point in time, the pilot addressed the passengers and informed us we were going to be 30 minutes late because we were now waiting on a replacement co-pilot, one had gotten sick.  This was actually good news to us, it increased the chance of our checked baggage getting on board.  The 30 minutes ended up being over an hour, now delaying our arrival in Amsterdam by that same amount.  No worries, we had over two hours layover in Amsterdam for our connection to Barcelona, it seemed all was finally going our way.  The flight to Barcelona was about 7 hours, 40 minutes, and was without incident.  We had a small dinner, made a couple of adult beverages, including fresh home grown key limes, and watched some movies on the seat back TV’s.  We do have to say the system and remote used on these Delta planes was horrible.  They actually had to reset the system after about an hour, some passengers were having video issues.  The meant everyone else had to start movies over, fast forwarding to their previous point in the movie.  The remotes were just horrible, the buttons just did not work correctly.

The flight had a few bumpy spots, but overall, it was fine.  We did not get much sleep, it just seemed too cramped, more so than on other flights.  We landed in Belgium, well it was Amsterdam, but again ,we had about a 15 minute taxi to the gate, resulting in our time between connections being only about an hour instead of over 2 hours.

Although we did not have to collect our bags for any customs like in the U.S., they were checked through to Barcelona, we did have to go through immigration, then back through security, which ended up being quite an event.  I have never had to take all of my camera gear out of my camera bag, but I had to remove any electronic devices, power supplies and lenses and place them in a plastic bin.  Oh well, better safe than a terrorist.

After all of that, we made it to our connecting gate about 5 minutes before boarding was started, almost 40 minutes after getting off of the plane in Amsterdam.  Stephanie had to gate check one of our carry on bags, apparently they considered her backpack as one, and the actual carry on as another.  Yes, we did end up taking two checked bags and one carry on, we just needed a little more room for the shoes, and some other items, including some change of clothes, which ended up as being a great addition, as explained later.

We boarded for the two hour flight to Barcelona, and we thought all was going our way, certainly we thought there was enough time between all of our flights for our checked baggage to make it to Barcelona.  The flight was smooth, and arrived on time, flying along the Spanish coast before heading to land the airport.

We got off, and headed to baggage claim.  First one small set of bags was unloaded, then another and out came our gate checked carry on, then another load of bags, but not ours, and we were still waiting.  Then the belt stopped, and we were one of the few passengers remaining without our bags.  Two different gentlemen who had flight connection and re-route issues coming from Detroit had no bags, as well as one local man from Barcelona was missing his bag.  We were not happy, but at least we were not getting on a cruise ship today like the other two gentlemen from Detroit.  They were on a Royal Caribbean ship leaving at 5 PM.

We all headed to the lost luggage station.  Our bags were supposedly in Amsterdam, they had apparently not made it on the flight to Barcelona for some reason.  The bad news, there was not another flight to Barcelona from Amsterdam until tomorrow.  The bags are supposed to be delivered to the hotel in the morning.  Luckily, we had the extra carry on, and we had packed a change of clothes in that as a precaution.  We both got a small bag of toiletries, some socks and a 2XL t shirt for our troubles.  We do have travel insurance, so we may be able to get some additional items while waiting on our bags to arrive tomorrow.

After all of that additional stress, realizing it could have been worse, the two gentlemen on the cruise ship were not getting their bags until tomorrow in their  next port of call in Cadiz, Spain, and they had nothing at all.

We took the Aerobus service from the Barcelona Airport to a bus stop about 3 blocks from the hotel.  It was easy to find the hotel, thanks to having used Google Earth  to see the buildings and familiarize ourselves with the walk from the bus top at the Placa Universitat to the Hotel Jazz.  We checked in and informed them to be on the look out for our bags tomorrow morning.

After freshening up, we headed out to find a grocery store fro some refreshments, Diet Pepsi and wine, a replacement corkscrew (it is on our checked baggage) and some lunch.  We just stopped st one of our favorites, Gyro sandwiches.  After the late lunch, and visit to a nice large grocery, we walked down the Las Ramblas street to the port and back.  This will be our route on Friday when we head from the hotel to the cruise ship.  Las Ramblas was nice, all of the vendors were selling their wares.  It was very cool and windy, about 45 degrees with a wind chill of 38 degrees.

It had been a long day, with not more than a couple hours of poor sleep, so we headed back to the hotel and arrived about 5:15 PM.  After refreshing with nice hot showers, we opened a bottle of wine and wrote this post.  We took a few pictures today, and will try and post some tomorrow.  I know we will sleep well tonight, probably waking up much earlier than we will want due tot he 6 hour time difference.

We have reset the clock on the blog to reflect our current time in Spain, and for the next several days both here and on the cruise.  My spell check helper is sound asleep, so blame any typo’s and really poor grammar on being tired and on Stephanie, this is not proof read yet.

Nov 282013
 

Stephanie and I do not think we ever welcomed sleep as much as we did last night after the long travel day, aggravating lost luggage and  a cold day in Barcelona.  Actually, after making it through about 7:30 PM last night, we were no longer as sleepy and stayed up until about 11 PM.  However, although we were not sleepy, our bodies and minds were tired.

Our Room in the Hotel Jazz

Our Room at the Hotel Jazz

We did not get an early start, certainly on purpose, but were out and on the go by about 9:00 AM.  Prior to getting ready, we had checked on the status of our lost baggage claim on the KLM website.  The online status had not been updated since yesterday, so we decided to place a call to the KLM baggage claim phone number.

We were informed that our baggage was in Barcelona, and should be delivered by 11:00 AM, which was good news    We left the room and ate breakfast at a nearby coffee shop, which was nice and relaxing.

We did not have much of  plan today, thinking we would walk around some and eventually get over to the Sagrada Familia Basilica.  We had some issues purchasing a ticket for the metro, we wanted a two day pass, and were trying to purchase it from a machine.  Like some of our past experiences in France, Spanish ticket machines do not like U.S. credit cards either, they require a PIN in order to use the card.  Of course, rarely do we need a PIN in the USA, so I have never set one up for our main travel card, a Capital One MasterCard.  Thinking we could purchase the tickets from a person at a ticket counter, off we headed to one (or so we thought) in the metro station,  The lady was more than helpful, except she wanted to show us how to use the machine, the only way to purchase a ticket.  After explaining our plight, she finally understood, but indicted tickets must be purchased from a machine, and if using a credit card, a PIN must be utilized.  We used cash…..

Sagrada Familia Basilica

Sagrada Familia Basilica

After finally getting our tickets, we headed for the metro line and got on the underground train  that we thought was the best choice to start our journey.  Unfortunately, we did not see the looping route for the initial ride, and ended up going in the opposite direction that we needed for the shortest route.  Eventually, we got to the second metro rout connection and got on the train heading to the Sagrada Familia.  Then we heard an announcement in Spanish on the PA system, and everybody proceeded to get off of the metro train at the next stop.

Apparently there was a issue with the train, and we had to get off before our intended stop.  It was apparent that we needed to walk to the next station and make our connection “manually”.  After looking at the city road map, we headed the several blocks to the next station.  Once there, whatever had caused the problem on the metro we were booted off of must have been cleared, and we proceeded on to the Sagrada  Familia stop on the same line that we had gotten off of about 20 minutes earlier.  We never knew what the issue was.

Nothing like taking the long route, it had been well over an hour to make what should have been a 15 minute journey.  We took a few photos from the outside, and contemplated skipping the visit to the inside of the Basilica due to the long line, especially since we had done the interior tour of the Basilica in 2008.

Sagrada Familia Inerior

Sagrada Familia Interior

We reconsidered, and got in line, and after about 20 minutes, we were at the ticket desk attempting to purchase tickets with our Capital One MasterCard.  The ticket attendant requested a passport or other picture ID to match the credit card, which of course we did not bring, never having had to produce identification on the past for any credit card purchases.  Stephanie had her drivers license, but not her credit card, so again, having no luck with credit, we used our cash once again.

Things were starting to get aggravating.  I guess there must be a lot of credit card theft in Barcelona, making  credit card usage much harder that we had experienced in previous travels, except for France.   However, once inside the church, we were so glad that we had persevered and had gone in, the interior was so much more completed than it had been on our last visit five years previous.  The inside actually was mostly finished, and looked like a church.

Sagrada Familia Altar Area

Sagrada Familia Altar Area

The altar was completed, and the pipe organ was actually in place.  The interior tower cranes were gone, and pews were in place.  It was an impressive sight.  We headed to the park north of the church and took a few pictures from that angle, which is of the oldest side of the building.

After that, we thought we would head back to the hotel to check our our luggage delivery, which was supposed to happen before 1:00 PM.  When we asked at the front desk, we were told that a call had been received from the company delivering our bags, but it would be between 4:00 PM and 6:00 PM before they arrived.  This was not acceptable, so up to the room we went for another call to KLM.  We are not exactly sure what had happened to the bags, but at least they were in Barcelona, and were indeed scheduled for delivery, just not as quickly as we had been told.  Not being able to get any farther with the KLM Customer Service, we hung up and headed back out into the city for some lunch.  We got a nice pizza, appetizer and wine from a small restaurant, and it was quite good.

After lunch and a visit to the bank for additional cash from the ATM, thanks to metro  and Sagrada Familia ticket purchases, we headed back to the hotel to once again check on our luggage.  Halleluiah, they were here.  It was such a relief.  Based on examination of the airline luggage tags, we are not sure that our luggage ever left South Carolina with us.  It is our belief that the standby flight was the culprit of our luggage problems, and that our luggage was not ever in Amsterdam when we initially asked at the Barcelona Airport.  The luggage tags were showing that our luggage went from Atlanta to Barcelona, with a connection through Paris at the Charles deGaulle Airport.  It is our belief that they were misplaced after we did not make the stand-by flight to Atlanta, thus causing the long delay in them getting to Barcelona, and then to our hotel.  There was no mention of any connection through Amsterdam on the luggage routing tags that were on the bags, and we certainly did not connect through Paris.    A firm letter to Delta will be in the works once we arrive back home, if not before via email.

Barcelona Christmas Lights

Barcelona Christmas Lights

After making sure all was intact in the luggage, we headed back out to walk around the city.  It was getting darker and all of the Christmas lights were coming on.  We took some pictures and walked around the Las Ramblas and Gothic areas, visiting the Barcelona Cathedral.

The Cathedral was pretty inside, but with all of the yellow colored sodium lights, the colors were not very pretty.  We went over to the Placa Catulana area of the city, and there were a lot of Christmas lights hanging above the streets, and apparently things were being set up for a festival this weekend.  Vendors were setting up their tents, and there were stages being prepared, and a dance troupe was practicing some ballet on a stage set up on the closed streets.

Barcelona Christmas Lights

Barcelona Christmas Lights

After eating some dinner at a ham sandwich shop, specializing in the special dried hams, priced from 35 euros up to about 400 euro. each  They had a sandwich special, and we also ordered a plate of cheese.  It was pretty tasty, and since we were tired, it was nice that it was located near the hotel.  Even though we had been walking a lot prior to this trip, the all day walking was definitely taking its toll.  It was time to head back to the hotel for the evening.

Hams Being Slices in Special Racks

Hams Being Slices in Special Racks

We will spend the morning visiting a few more sights before checking out of the hotel and heading to the port.  Hopefully we will have some time to add a few pictures from today.

Hotel Jazz Front Entryway

Hotel Jazz Front Entryway

Nov 302013
 
View From Our Hotel Window

View From Our Hotel Window

Today we will be going down to the port to board the Ruby Princess to start our cruise portion of the trip. We got up about 7:00 AM and could feel the effects of all of the walking we had done yesterday. After getting ready, we organized our suitcases and removed as much from our carry on bag to make room for some refreshments to take onto the ship.

We expanded our large suitcases since we were no longer concerned about any size or weight restrictions for boarding the ship, thus allowing us to have more room to free up space in the carry on bag. It was surprising how little reorganization we had to do to the large bags, I guess you don’t mess them up much when they are missing for almost two days, and you don’t remove any clothes from them!!

Inside The Barcelona Cathedral

Inside The Barcelona Cathedral

Our plan for the day was to have breakfast at the same cafe as yesterday, then head over to the Barcelona Cathedral to see it during the daylight, without the awful effects of the yellow sodium lighting. After breakfast, we did come back to the room so we could go ahead and check out of the hotel, leaving our luggage stored at the hotel until later in the day so we could do a little more sightseeing in Barcelona before heading over to the cruise ship.

With our luggage locked, and then secured in the luggage storage area of the hotel, we headed over to the cathedral. It was brighter and more colorful inside with the sunshine coming through the stained glass windows. However, it is still an old and somewhat dingy church inside.

Barcelona Cathedral

Barcelona Cathedral

Afterward, we walked some through the Gothic section of Barcelona, heading south to the port area where we got on the underground metro to head over to Montjuic to ride the funnicular partially up the mountain, and then to  board the gondola cars visit the castle and fort at the top.

Fannicular to Monjuic

Funicular to Montjuic

The funicular is a cable driven sloped rail car, one is at the top and the other is at the bottom. The upper car helps to counter balance the weight of the lower car, and the tracks are split in the middle for the cars to pass side by side, then merge back to a single track. It is only about a 3-4 minute ride from top to bottom.

From the exit of the funicular, it was a short walk to the gondola cars, similar to those used at a ski resort. The tickets for this were not covered in our two day metro pass, so we had to purchase two tickets from the automated machines. Again, tickets could only be bought through a machine, and the credit card required a PIN, same as yesterday, and as a result, we had to use cash, just like yesterday.

With tickets in hand, we got on a 6 passenger gondola, and since there were hardly any other people waiting in line, we got to ride by ourselves. It is an interesting route, the cars actually turn ninety degrees to the right about halfway up, and there is a station at the turn to depart only in the downward direction. There is a park area halfway up, so I guess some people may want to get off there on the way down from the fort/castle at the top of the lift.

View of Barcelonsa Harbor From The Castle

View of Barcelona Harbor From The Castle

Once at the top, it was a short walk to the castle/fort. It was uphill, but the worst part were the large gaps in the cobble brick pavers. One could easily turn an ankle if not paying attention while walking. The views from the top were nice, but due to the low sun angle at this time of year, and the significant amount of smog hanging over Barcelona, it was not as good as we had hoped. We could see our Princess Cruise ship in the port, but it was directly into the sun for photos, and the ship was partially obscured by some of the large container ship cranes at the port docks.

Lower Portion of Las Ramblas

Lower Portion of Las Ramblas

We headed back to the gondola, then to the funnicular for the ride down to the bottom, where we caught the metro to the upper portion of Las Ramblas Street to visit the grocery store one more time to pick up some cranberry juice and another diet Pepsi, just stocking up on supplies before getting on the ship. With the purchases in hand, we headed back to the hotel to pick up our bags, pack the newly acquired supplies into the carry on bag, and head to the port to board the ship.

We were debating the choice to either walk all the way to the port, about 20-25 minutes through some of the crowds on Las Ramblas, or to take the underground metro, and face the potential of carrying the heavy luggage up and down stairs to access the various underground platforms. Although almost all of the underground metro stations have escalators, most are only in the up direction heading out of the station, not going down into the station like we needed to assist with the luggage transport. Some stations do have elevators, but not all, so it was not an easy decision not knowing for sure what mechanical assistance was available to help ease handling the luggage. With all of the crowds we had seen on Las Ramblas on the way back from the grocery store, which was the same route in reverse we needed to take to go to the port, we opted to take the underground from the metro station that was really close to the hotel. We think the large crowds were in town for the Christmas celebrations that were starting this weekend.

Of course, the first underground station entry point had no mechanical lift of any type, only stairs going down into the station. I handled the two big bags, and Stephanie carried the camera bag and carry on full of supplies. We got through the ticket gates using the special entry gates for wheelchairs and baby buggies, which was much easier than struggling with the bags through the normal narrow entry gates. After the initial steps, we had to take an elevator down to the next level to catch the proper metro train. We were glad for this lift, it was at least three stories down to our platform. Once on the proper platform, we took the next available metro train for the short ride to another station where we had to make a transfer to another line. Unfortunately, there was yet one more set of steps to navigate with the bags, so we split the bags up once more and headed down. On this train, we only had to go one stop to be near the port, and once we got off the metro train, we were glad to see this last station had an elevator for the one story ascent to street level.

Arriving at street level, it was just a short walk across one major street, and over to the stop for the special port bus, which carries passengers to and from the ship for a nominal fee of euro 2.50 per person. We paid and boarded the bus,  but had to wait about 20 minutes for the bus to load up with additional passengers heading back to the ship that had been out visiting Barcelona, obviously staying on for the second part of their cruise. Most of these passengers had likely started in Venice on the previous segment of the cruise.  We learned later that about half of the previous cruise passengers had disembarked in Barcelona, and half had stayed on for the back to back transatlantic cruise. We were the only ones on the bus with luggage, so everyone else on the bus was already on board from the previous cruise, or had checked in earlier in the day and were out sightseeing.

We dropped off our bags outside the terminal, placing it next to some luggage from other passengers arriving by taxi, and headed into the terminal. Right off, we were in a line to go through Security, just like at an airport.  We had to remove watches, cell phones, etc. and place them in our carry on bags to go through the x-ray. Apparently, there was not much of an issue with bringing anything on board, such as wine or other beverages of adult nature, all our bags went through without question. After checking in and getting our ship/room access cards, we noticed some duty free stores inside the terminal, two of which were selling wine and liquor.

We were a little reluctant to purchase anything at first since one of the security officers from the ship was in the store. Apparently, she was just purchasing something herself because a nice couple from the ship informed us that there was no other security checks going onto the ship, and we could take anything onto the ship we wanted.  They were actually in the store for a second time “stocking up” We purchased a bottle of Vodka, and also a bottle of Canadian Club, which was rare to find for sale in Europe. We had always planned on the vodka, which was supposed to go with some Crystal Light powder mix we had planned to bring, but somehow forgot. There are NO powdered sugar free drink mixes in Barcelona, we had looked in several  grocery stores we had visited in Barcelona. This over site in packing forced us to purchase the Ocean Spray Raspberry/Cranberry juice at the grocery store earlier in the day, as a substitute for the Crystal Light. This information about the lack of concern by the ship’s Security for bringing spirits on board also eased our concerns about the items we had packed from home and placed in our checked bags.

We got to our stateroom, and unpacked what luggage we had, basically our carry on and backpacks. Then it was off to lunch at the Horizon Court buffet. After lunch, we headed back to the cabin and discovered that Stephanie’s large bag had been delivered. We thought it odd to get only one piece of luggage, I guess we were a little paranoid after the issues we had with the airline luggage fiasco. Stephanie unpacked her bag, and then headed down the hallway to the crew service elevator area looking for my bag. She reported back that she could see my bag was in the service elevator area waiting to be brought to our stateroom, which happened a few minutes later. It was nice to have all of our luggage.  After getting everything unpacked, it was time for the emergency drill, so we gathered up our life jackets and headed to our muster station.

After the emergency drill, we headed to the outside bar in the rear of the ship to have our traditional ship’s departure beers. We talked with a nice bartender from the Philippines, and were glad to hear he was from an area in the Philippines that had not been in the path of the recent typhoon, and his family was not directly impacted. We asked about the number of total passengers on this portion of the cruise, and based on what he told us, we think the ship may be about 75% full.

By this time it was 7:00 PM, and the ship was releasing lines to head out to sea. It was dark, cold and windy, so the ship did not have any sail away party. We headed back to the room to watch the departure from our balcony, until even that got too cold.

We headed to dinner, once again in the buffet.   We were just too tired to get ready for the dining room, and based on the number of passengers we saw at the buffet, so were a lot of other folks. After walking around some on the ship, we headed back to the room to relax. The weather report for tomorrow is not the best, cooler, with winds of 20-30 mph, and scattered showers. If it looks too bad in the morning, we may not rent our car, and just hang around in Toulon, and just get some rest. We think the stress of the flights related to the weather, and the stress over the luggage being lost has us more tired than we normally are after the first couple of days dealing with the 6 hour time zone change.

We do get ESPN2 on TV, so we watched some football before retiring for the night.

Nov 302013
 

It was a rough night on the Mediterranean Sea on our transit from Barcelona to Toulon, France, our first port of call. Although we were not too far offshore, and the wind was blowing from the shore out into the sea, it was gusting to around 30 knots according to the ship’s weather information on the TV. Our cabin as a little forward of mid-ship, and we may be above a stabilizer, which they must have been using  help keep the ship steady since the wind was blowing from the port side, which is our side of the ship. Most of the night there was a strange shuddering sound which we have not heard on any of our previous cruises. Our cabin is a little more to the middle of the ship than on past cruises, but only by about 15 cabins.  I doubt the noise we heard was specifically localized to this part of the ship and only being heard by us based on where our cabin is located  on this cruise. We heard the noise at times all during night, but were too tired to let it bother us much.

Toulon 2013-3731

Port of Toulon

We arrived in the port of La Seyne Sur Mer at about 7:00 AM, and the ship proceeded to back into our spot along the pier. It was as we had surmised, we were not actually docking in the portion of the port closest to the city of Toulon, it was across the harbor, and the city was only accessible via a $15.00 round trip ticket on a special port ferry. How nice and convenient for some ferry businesses, have the ship dock far away and then charge $15.00 to get to the port city listed.

We did not care, we were heading to the Europcar car rental office in La Seine Sur Mer, close to the docks we were at. We finished getting ready and headed off to the breakfast buffet for a hardy breakfast prior to our journey in the rental car. It was not the best weather in the port this morning, it was windy, about 45 degrees with overcast skies, and 70% rain was forecast for the afternoon. However, the sun did come out a little, there were some patches of blue skies between the clouds, so we decided to go ahead with our plans to rent the car.

We headed for the gangway at about 8;00 AM, and had to wait for about 10 minutes before everything was in place to allow passengers to disembark the ship. While waiting, we started talking to a couple who were from Dallas, and they were also going to the Europcar office, so we decided to split a taxi ride, which I had read was about Euro 10.00. They had actually emailed the rental office and were told to call them for a pick-up from the ship.  We all decided it would be quicker to go by taxi and not take the extra time waiting for a shuttle, which we have historically found to be delayed in getting anywhere on-time. I had read where the rental agency would reimburse the taxi fare, but in our case, when I mentioned that we had ‘”arrived by taxi” when checking out the car, the rental agent did not seem inclined to offer any reimbursement, but did offer to drop us off back at the ship after we returned the car.

We rented a Toyota Yaris Hybrid, which had an automatic transmission, rare for European car rentals.  It was my belief that these hybrid cars must all have automatic transmission in order to run efficiently between the electric and motorized modes. It turned out to be nice having the automatic as we eventually ended up on some very narrow and steep roads, more on that later.

Harbor in Cassis

Harbor in Cassis

We had programed several of our destinations into the GPS we brought from home, which includes Europe Maps.  However, when we tried to find them in the “favorites” on the GPS, they were gone. We never did figure that out, but did not end up needing them anyway, we just used the “search nearby” feature on the GPS to find our first stop in Cassis.

We were trying to head to the Cassis Harbor, since it was the starting point of some of the accesses to the Calanques, which are inlets in the natural rock cliffs. We took some very narrow winding roads as instructed by the GPS, and made it to the small harbor. There were a lot of tour boats there, but not many people since it is the off season. The tour boats were large, open boats with bench seats to transport people on water tours of the calanques.

Since it was fairly early in the morning, just a few of the locals were out and about having coffee and breakfast in the open cafes. We walked around some, mainly looking for the WC, or water closet (toilet). Stephanie asked about a public WC at the visitor information center and we were told it was near a fountain in the small square, however, after searching all sides of the square, we could not locate it. We went into a small grocery and asked another man inside, who we found out could speak good English, and his response was it was by the waterfront. Again, we searched a lot, but did not find it anywhere, so we resorted to asking at a restaurant, and they were kind enough to let us use their facility.

Toulon 2013-3814

Chuck & Stephanie – Calanques Port Miou

With that task accomplished, we got back into our car and headed to one of the Calanques, which is also used as a harbor for boats, called Calanques Port Miou. We found a parking lot and started hiking the trails to find some of the more scenic areas along the coast. Some of this area had once been used as a quarry according to the trail information signage. Initially the trail was smooth and somewhat flat, but then it started to go uphill, and was quite rocky. The rock formation in the area seemed to generally be limestone, and in some areas, it was worn very smooth from the hikers. We were glad it was not wet, the rocks would have been extremely slippery.

We walked quite a way and took a lot of pictures. Part of the trail went down into a small Calanques, and there was a sandy beachfront about 60 feet wide. We did not go any farther along the trail, and headed back, but found another trail heading in a direction to go farther out onto a peninsula.

Small Rock Beach Area

Small Sandy & Rocky Beach Area

By this time, we had already spent about 2 hours hiking and taking pictures.  We decided that since this was such a nice and peaceful area, we did not want to go into any of the other large cities we had originally had  planned to drive to on the port of call, especially since the weather forecast was calling for some rain later in the afternoon. The weather actually cleared some while we were hiking, and added to the scenic views.

Toulon 2013-3832

Port Miou Calanques

We found another trail along the harbor that stayed lower down and closer to the water, so we walked along that trail for about a mile. Afterward, we headed back to the car to try and go by road to the area across the narrow inlet of the harbor to the other side since it was more exposed to the views of the Mediterranean Sea. Once o=n the other side, we ended up in a large parking area.  From there, and we walked up to a small area on another long, narrow peninsula of land. Along the way, we visited a small restored church,  and past the church was a large open area looking out onto the sea.

The Walking Trail

The Walking Trail

After a few more pictures, we headed back to the car to drive back to La Seyne Sur Mer. It was only about 28 kilometers, so we were back into the city area in less than 30 minutes since the speed limit on the roads was  130 km/hr. We saw a grocery store, and decided to stop in and have a look at what they had to offer. However, it was a very small store, mostly fresh vegetables, and some dry goods, but not much in the way of sodas and juices.

Toulon 2013-3912

Port Miou from Alternate Side of the Calanques

We located another grocery store using the GPS, and it was just a few kilometers drive before we arrived to find what ended up being the French equivalent of our WalMart called Carefour.  It was more crowded than any WalMart Superstore we had ever been to, it was hard to even find a parking spot. We went in and spent about 30 minutes looking around and purchasing a couple of bottles of French wine since this was our only French port of call. They also carried Canada Dry Ginger Ale, so we picked up about three bottles of that, finding it much cheaper than purchasing the cans of ginger ale on the ship.

Upon leaving the store we found that it had started do drizzle, so after packing up our supplies in our backpacks, we headed back to the rental car agency. There was a gas station right next door, so we filled up the tank, not having used much gas since we had not traveled very far, and the car was a hybrid. Unfortunately, no one was at the car rental office when we tried to ask where to leave the car.   There was not any room to park it out in front of the office, so we took it across the street to another lot, but no one was there either. We waited several minutes and the lot attendant arrived in another rental car, probably having dropped another renter off at the cruise ship. We were a little concerned about the gas gauge, it was very delayed in showing the tank was full, so much so that the attendant wrote that it was only 7/8 full on the car return form. We tried to explain that we had filled it up, but between his limited English, and our even more limited French, it was not working. We went back across the street, and the rental office person was also back, and could speak good English. We convinced her that they did not need to charge us to fuel the car, that it was the “slow”gauge. However, I think there was still some doubt in their minds. The attendant took us back to the port in our same car, and after driving a couple of kilometers, the gauge was now reading over full, and he pointed that out, understanding finally what we had been trying to make them understand. He now seemed happy and so were we.

Chips & Salsa Happy Hour

Chips & Salsa Happy Hour

He dropped us off at the ship and we were back on board by about 4:00 PM. We headed to the room to relax a little before going to the buffet for a late lunch. We brought back some chips and salsa to our cabin to have with some adult refreshments, it was too cold, windy and rainy to enjoy this snack on the balcony.

In a bit, we headed to the hot tub, our legs were quite sore from all of the hiking on the hilly trails in Cassis. After getting cleaned up, we headed to the buffet, again too tired to spend time going to the dining room for a more formal dinner. Again, we were not the only ones tired from the day at port, the buffet was very crowded. Plus, we had not seen many items of interest on the dining room menu for last night or today.  It is possible that they are not offering any special meal items due to the long port days, and late port departure times. People don’t want to miss any “special” meal items, and they are also too tired to go to dinner after a long day off of the ship.

After dinner we went to listen to a great classical guitar player in the atrium, and then it was back to the room to work on the blog, and turn in early. We did notice that the seas had become very rough, and when we looked at the ship’s weather report we could see why. They were reporting winds of about 45 knots, with gusts to 60 knots. We felt that most of the night on the way to Livorno, our next stop.

Since the internet on the ship is slow, we will not be posting many pictures until we have time to get onto the internet when usage is low, and the seas are hopefully calmer. We will go back and place pictures in each post, and also add photo albums for the ports of call, as we are able.

To view more photos from today’s post, here is a link to the Photo Album for Toulon, or you can access it via the menu on the top right.

Dec 012013
 

The seas were quite rough last night as we traveled from Toulon to Livorno, the winds were blowing around 50 knots according to the ship’s weather on the cabin TV, with gusts even higher. Luckily, since we were sleeping, or at least trying to sleep, it was not as bad as being up and trying to walk around.

Port of Livorno

Port of Livorno

We arrived on time in the port city of Livorno, and were off of the ship soon after the scheduled 7:00 AM arrival time. We met up with two other couples while waiting for the gangway to be put into place, and they were trying to find some additional people for sharing the taxi ride to the main train station in Livorno, which is too far from the ship to walk to. The fare is Euro 25.00 for from two to eight persons, so it was nice to be able to split the cost more ways than just the two of us. We actually spent the rest of the day with one of the couples, they were about our age, maybe a little younger, and were from Los Angeles. They had remained on the cruise from the original voyage from Venice to Barcelona, and since they had just done this same port of call a few days earlier on that cruise, they knew exactly how to get to the train station from the ship.

Since Stephanie and I were going to Pisa, they asked to go along since we knew how to get there via train from our prior visits. On their previous stop in Livorno, they had gone to Florence, and now wanted to see Pisa on their second time around in Livorno. We purchased our train tickets for the round trip to the Pisa San Rossoro Station, which is a short 5 minute walk to the Leaning Tower. Since it was Sunday, and the train schedules are more limited, it took longer to get to the San Rossoro station than we had experienced in the past. We ended up having about a 45 minute “layover” in the Pisa Centrale Station before we could get a connecting train to the San Rossoro Station. We could have walked to the tower from Pisa Centrale, but it takes about 30 minutes to cover the distance, plus, since we did not have a map and were afraid of getting lost, we just waited for the next train and made the long 4 minute train journey instead.

Leaning Tower and Cathedral

Leaning Tower and Cathedral

Once we arrived at the Pisa San Rossoro Station, the walk to the Piazza del Duomo, where the Cathedral and Leaning Tower are located, was easy, and was just as we had seen using Google Street View during our pre-trip research. It was a cold and windy morning, but at least the sun was shining. We arrived in the Piazza del Duomo about 8:40 AM, and took a few pictures before heading over to the Cathedral for Sunday Mass. Our new friends, Julio and Elena were also Catholic, so they went to Mass with us.

After Mass, Julio and Elena decided to also joins us for our 11:40 AM trip up to the top of the Leaning Tower.  Luckily, it was still early, and the crowds had not yet arrived, so they easily purchased their tickets for that same time slot. Since there were no crowds, we realized that we had not needed to purchase our tickets ahead of time, but it is always safer to have them just in case.  Stephanie and I had been worried that the cruise ship tours might have gotten a lot of the tickets since our 11:40 AM ticket time was the first time slot available online when we had purchased our tickets a couple of weeks ago. We took some more pictures as we waited for our designated time slot for the Tower climb.

Leaning Tower of Pisa

Leaning Tower of Pisa

At 11:40 AM, we entered the bottom of the tower for a short explanation about the construction of the tower, and the resulting “lean”, and how it had been somewhat straightened during the original construction. The initial 4 stories were constructed first, then the lean started, and it sat for about 100 years before the last 3 levels were added.  Some compensation for the initial lean was built into those last three levels. The Tower leaned about 5.5 degrees before some adjustments were made over the last 10 years to stabilize the tower at 5 degrees of lean.

We climbed the 260 steps to the level that is not considered the “top”, which is not as high as we had gone 5 years ago when we had last climbed the tower. We had actually gone to the very top level, and had hoped to go there again, since the lean of the tower is a lot more evident looking across the very top. It was a little disappointing, but still was nice to finally see the tower without any exterior scaffolding.

View From The Top

View From The Top – Well Almost The Top

Of course, the same could not be said for the cathedral, and some of the other surrounding buildings, which were now covered with scaffolding instead.

After climbing the tower, we headed over to some of the street vendors to look at their wares and then headed over to the nearby grocery store, which we were surprised to see open on a Sunday. We picked up some supplies, as did our traveling companions, and then headed back to the area around the leaning tower so we could find the street we had  initially taken to arrive at the Piazza del Duomo, now for our walk back to the Pisa San Rossoro train station.

Climbing Down The Leaning Tower

Climbing Down The Leaning Tower

Again, we had to wait on the connecting train to Pisa Centrale Station, and then waited once again there for the train back to Livorno. Twenty minutes after boarding at the Pisa Centrale Station, we arrived back at the Livorno train station, and ran into the other couple we had shared the taxi ride with to the station earlier this morning.  They had gone to Florence today and were now looking for other passengers to split the return to port taxi ride cost with. This time we were able to get a group of eight assembled to share the taxi, which is the maximum for the taxi van size, and we headed back to the port.

Once back on board the ship, we went to the buffet for a very late lunch. We went back into the port terminal building, which was located right next to where the ship was berthed, to use their free WiFi, but after we got inside the building, we discovered the WiFi was not operating. We had wanted to add some photos to the blog using free minutes, but were not able to do so.

We headed back to the room and relaxed a little while enjoying some Sangria we had bought in Barcelona. We decided to head out to the hot tub around 5:00 PM to enjoy a nice hot soaking before the ship departed at 7:00 PM.  We wanted to be finished at the hot tub before the wind picked from the ship’s movement.

We had checked the dining room menu earlier, and once again had not seen any meals that peaked our interest enough to go through the effort of getting dressed for that longer duration dining experience. Since the ship was in ports the last two days, and was not departing until 7:00 PM tonight, we do not believe the menus for the dining room have been filled with really nice choices for meals since many of the tours were not ending prior to the scheduled time for the early seating.  People certainly did not want to “miss out” on any special meals due to port duration times. This was evident as we went to the buffet, it was open on both sides of the ship, and was quite crowded. Obviously, many other passengers had our same plan, go to the buffet instead of the dining room after a long day in port, or had already missed their 5:15 PM early seating dining time.

After dinner, we went to one of the bars to listen to some jazz music, and enjoy a glass of wine, mainly for the purpose of acquiring a set of wine glasses for the room for use when drinking our private stock during the cruise. After several songs, we decided to leave. The music was so calming it was starting to put us both to sleep. We headed over to the atrium, and listened to the same guitar player from last night, he was really good, and the music was a little more lively, keeping us awake.

We headed back to the cabin and worked on pictures and the blog before retiring for the night at about 11:00 PM. It had been a long day, and tomorrow would be the same, another 7:00 AM port stop, where we will be taking a early train into Rome for the day.

To view more photos from today’s post, here is a link to the Photo Album for Livorno, or you can access it via the menu on the top right.

 

Dec 022013
 

Well, this was our last “early” start port for the trip, and at 5:30 AM, we were up and getting ready so we could depart the ship as close to the 7:00 AM posted disembarkation time as possible for the long day in Rome. We went to breakfast at about 6:15 AM, and the ship was still moving toward the port, which was common for a 7:00 AM port arrival schedule. Once we were back at the room, and fully packed to go, we looked out of the sliding glass door and realized we were still quite a ways out of the inlet to the port. It was just getting daylight, so this was our first opportunity to see how far we still were from the port, and that the 7:00 AM scheduled arrival was not going to occur.

Waiting Outside The Harbor

Waiting Outside The Harbor

Shortly thereafter, the Captain came on the loudspeaker and informed us that it was too windy to enter the port, the winds were gusting over 50 knots. Initially they thought we would be delayed until around 8:00 AM, then it was 9:00 AM, and at 9:30 AM, we were still in a holding pattern outside of the port entrance. Finally, around 10:00 AM, we started toward the port, and by 10:45 AM, the ship was secure alongside the pier.

Of course, all of the tours were now close to four hours behind schedule, and everyone was impatiently waiting to get off the ship, and all at once.  Normally, with the early arrival time, not many people are ready to get off as soon as the ship is cleared for disembarkation, there are usually just small staggered groups ready to go ashore that early. We usually only have about 20 people waiting with us to get off the ship that early, which makes it nice, there are no lines and getting off of the ship is quick and easy. Today, however, was a totally different experience.

People were lined up and waiting by the time we were secured to the pier, and the gangway was lowered. We had about 200 people ahead of us waiting in line to get off, and to then board the free port shuttle buses that dropped passengers off at the port entrance. We were informed that the ship was not going to depart until 9:00 PM, which was two hours later than initially scheduled. However, the additional port duration time was not much benefit since sunset is scheduled for about 4:45 PM today; making it hard to see many of the sites in the dark.

Once off of the ship, it was a mad rush to the train station to get the first available train into Rome. The next train scheduled for arrival was already running 15 minutes late by the time we had our tickets and were at the platform, which did not help the situation. Then, due to normal local crowds, and the release of several hundred cruise ship passengers that were all trying to get to Rome at the same time, the train was VERY crowded. We were able to get seats, but they were not together, and the aisles were jammed with people standing right over you for the 50 minute trip into the Rome San Pietro Station, the train station for St. Peter’s Basilica, our initial destination. Of course, it seemed like everyone standing over us and sitting around us was coughing and sneezing for the entire train ride in the very crowded conditions. We surmise that with the changes in the weather this time of year, a lot of people are dealing with colds, including me. The weather had been sunny when we left Civitavechhia, but unfortunately was turning cloudy by the time we arrived in Rome.

Waiting In Line To Enter St. Peter's

Waiting In Line To Enter St. Peter’s

We walked the familiar few blocks to St. Peter’s Square, but as we approached, the normal entrances were blocked off, and there were a lot of policemen on the streets, as well as barricades to direct the pedestrian traffic away from the main street. We finally found an opening in the barricades to cross into the square, and got into the long line for security screening to enter the Basilica. We were not sure what was going on, but even the crowds seemed larger than normal. About 20 minutes later, some type of motorcade drove by with several police cars in front and behind, and then it was over, and the police left, and the barricades were taken down. We were not sure who it was, but certainly it was someone important, thereby requiring all of the additional security. We do not think it was the Pope, more people would have been lining the street next to the barricades.

After about 45 minutes of waiting in the long line, we went through the security screening and then walked into the Basilica, It had gotten even more cloudy by this time, so the natural sunlight illumination inside the Basilica was not as good as it could have been for photos. However, it is still an impressive sight, as it had been when we were here before. Unfortunately, since we were so late arriving, we were unable to attend Mass inside the Basilica as we had planned, masses are only held in the morning, and by now it was about 12:45 PM.

Inside St. Peter's Basilica

Inside St. Peter’s Basilica

Stephanie had wanted to get some holy water from the Basilica, so we headed over to the Sacristy entrance, which was where we had read online that we needed to go to accomplish that task. There was a small gift store there and we purchased a small bottle to fill from the font. Unfortunately, by the time we got to that part of the Basilica, the Sacristy had just closed, and was not scheduled to reopen until 4:00 PM. Fortunately, there was a holy water font outside, and we were able to fill the small bottle from that. There were several other people doing the same thing. We were fortunate that by the time we got into the Basilica, even though the lines were long, there were really not many people inside. It appeared that we were in between the morning and afternoon “tour group time zones”

Chuck & Stephanie - St. Peter's Square

Chuck & Stephanie – St. Peter’s Square

After walking inside the Basilica, we went downstairs under the Basilica to the Crypt, where many of the past Popes are interned. This was also one of the exits to the Basilica, over toward the location of the queuing area for  going to the top of the dome. However, since I have had a head cold for a couple of days now, and it was getting very cloudy, we decided to skip that on this trip. Too many stairs to climb feeling somewhat under the weather, and with skies looking more and more like rain.

Inside St. Peter's Basiica

Inside St. Peter’s Basiica

We visited the Basilica gift shop and Stephanie purchased a few items while I waited outside. Since the threat of rain seemed ever increasing, we decided that it would be better if we just headed back to the ship early. On the way out of the square, we did stop for some pictures in front of St. Peters before walking back to the train station. On the walk back, it did start to drizzle some, and was getting cooler. It was about 2:45 PM, and seemed even later with the cloud cover, almost like it was already starting to get dark. Of course, we were not too far from sunset scheduled for 4:45 PM today.

High Dynamic Ramge Photo - St. Peter's

High Dynamic Ramge Photo – St. Peter’s

We boarded the 3:00 PM train back to Civitavechhia, and it was a much more relaxing return ride than this morning’s train trip had been. In anticipation of the large number  of commuters heading home for the day, the train company  had already switched over to the double deck train cars for the start of the afternoon commuter crowds.  Since we were early for the commuter passenger peak time, there were plenty of seats available, another benefit of heading back early.

The return train made a few more stops than the morning train had made, I guess another change due to the anticipated increase in passengers starting to return home from their daily commute into Rome. We did notice that it was starting to rain more heavily at times during the one hour return trip to Civitavechhia, but once we got there, it has stopped.

We started the walk back from the train station to the port entrance to catch the port shuttle bus back to the ship, but decided we would try and find the grocery store we had visited when we were here in 2008. We made a few wrong turns, but eventually found our way there. We were looking for some Vicks for my cold, and some hot chocolate for Stephanie, neither of which they had in the somewhat small store with limited selections. We ended up going to a pharmacy for the Vicks, being somewhat astonished by the price of Euro 16.00 for a container of Vicks and a Vicks inhaler. It was a larger container than we normally get, but since these types of items can only be purchased from a pharmacy in most areas of Europe, they are probably priced higher than we are used to compared to when we purchase them at a WalMart of Target at home. These items are not typically stocked at normal  stores here. We should have looked yesterday at the Toulon “WalMart” equivalent Carfore, but we did not think about it then.

Our Last View of the Dome of St. Peters

Our Last View of the Dome of St. Peters

We walked the few blocks back to the port entrance and got onto the free shuttle bus back to the ship. Once back on board, we headed to the buffet for another late lunch. With the late timing of our arrival in Rome, the wait in the line at St. Peter’s, and the time it took to walk around inside the Basilica, we never really had an opportunity for grabbing a bite to eat, and there were not really any places to eat around the areas where we walked to and from the station in Rome.

After lunch, we headed back to the room to relax and have a glass of wine, and to do a load of laundry to wash whites/light colors. We thought since we were back on the ship earlier than many of the tours, the laundry mat would not be crowded, and we were correct. In addition, the laundry mat  is only a few cabins down the hall, so it is really convenient. We had some wine while we waited for the clothes to wash and then to dry, yeah for clean underwear!

After finishing the laundry, we got ready to make our daily visit the hot tubs near the spa, but when we arrived, we found that they were closed. Apparently, due to a forecast of rough seas, these particular hot tubs were closed off and drained in order to avoid overflowing and flooding the spa/salon area. We have seen the flooding occur on other similar ships, but mostly  from the lap pool, which had been drained for several days already.  We had never seen the hot tubs drained. This was the information we got from the spa personnel when we asked. We headed for some other hot tubs near the main pool, but it was really windy there. We then walked back to the hot tubs on the stern decks, but they were not very warm, and it was also windy in that area of the ship since it was not protected. The winds had picked up again, similar to this morning, ergo the forecast for rough sea conditions once we left port. Nothing like running around in your bathing suits in the cold wind, already suffering from a cold. We went back to the main pool and tested the temperature of the hot tubs there. These were warmer than those on the stern, but not warm enough to offset the cold breeze, so we abandoned the hot tub plan for health reasons.

We went back to the room and changed before heading out to find a quiet area so our room steward could prepare the room for the night. We headed up to the Skywalkers Nightclub at the top of the stern of the ship, which is usually a quiet area until it opens at 10:00 PM for dancing. There were just a few other passengers there, and Stephanie read while I worked on the blog. The ship departed around 9:00 PM as scheduled, but with the high winds, the ship had to have assistance from two tugs to pull it sideways away from the pier. The thrusters were apparently not strong enough to push the ship sideways into the strong wind. We had not ever seen this happen before, but, prior to today, we had also never been late arriving into a port due to high winds.

We were surprised that once we got out to sea, it was not nearly as rough as it had been last night, probably due to the fact that the ship was now heading westward with the wind as we start our total of three days at sea heading out of the Mediterranean Sea, through the Strait of Gibraltar, and into the Atlantic Ocean and the island of Madeira.

To view more photos from today’s post, here is a link to the Photo Album for Rome, or you can access it via the menu on the top right.

Dec 052013
 

After leaving the port of Civitavecchia, the seas were not as rough as we had anticipated although the wind was blowing as hard as reported.  We were now heading mostly with the wind and with the seas, with the wind and waves coming from slightly to the the port side of straight astern. It was the smoothest night we have had since boarding the ship in Barcelona.

Sunrise From Our Balcony

Sunrise From Our Balcony

It was also our first opportunity to sleep in, without any worries about lost baggage or port day travel plans. In addition, it was also our first sunrise at sea, and we were able to take pictures without leaving the close proximity and comfort of our balcony. Of course, Stephanie was really sleeping in. I was awake early as usual, but at least we were not on any rigid schedule for getting ready, eating breakfast, and getting ashore.

I am feeling much better today, less of the runny nose, and a lot more energy, hopefully the head cold is past its worst and I am heading toward full recovery.

We went to the breakfast buffet at about 9:00 AM, then walked around the ship. It is sunny today, and probably the best weather day since we arrived in Europe. With the wind direction and the ship direction being mostly the same, there is very little relative breeze, and it was really very pleasant on deck as long as you were in the sunshine. Temperatures are forecast to be in the low 60’s for the highs, balmy compared to the last several days.

The ship was having a sale of Mediterranean “merchandise” in one of the dining rooms, there were quite a few tables covered with junk, oops, I mean inexpensive items. Everything was $10.00, but probably worth about $3.00. They were trying to get rid of all of the merchandise for their cruising season in the Mediterranean, which was ending with this cruise.

We then attended a “Lecture at Sea” on Flying Boats, anticipating a really interesting discussion on the early days of luxury travel on the large flying boats operated by Pan Am in the late 1930’s and early 1940’s. The lecture was given by an author of novels based on the days of flying boats, so he had spent some time investigation the history of flying boats for his fictional works. Unfortunately, he did not discuss the largest and last of the Boeing planes the Boeing 314, which dad had flown on as a Pan Am contract pilot in the early 1940’s when the military had taken over the Pan Am flights for military transports. I guess most of his books were on the planes used for the Pacific routes, most famous of which was the China Clipper, so he focused his information there and not on the planes used for the Atlantic routes which Dad had flown, and which were much larger in size.

Stephanie Arranging Our Deck Chairs

Stephanie Arranging Our Deck Chairs on the Balcony

After the lecture, we headed back to the room and Stephanie put on her bathing suit and sat out in the sunshine on the balcony while I worked on the blog and photos, getting us caught up for a large upload late tonight when the internet connection is not being used as much, and is dramatically faster.

We ate a late lunch in the buffet, and relaxed before going to the hot tubs near the spa at the front of the ship. Fortunately, they were refilled and open today, and we really enjoyed the therapeutic soak. There was a couple from Canada in the hot tub when we entered, and we ended up talking to them a lot about cruising and various destinations they have been to. We did enjoy one of our chilled bottles of Asti Spumanti while relaxing in the tub. At around 6:00 PM, we headed back to the room to get ready for dinner. Tonight was the first formal night, it was the Captain’s Reception in the Atrium area, complete with the ever famous champagne glass fountain. We definitely wanted to go to the reception for some champagne and light appetizers.

We were a little late going due to a malfunction in my ability to tie a bow tie. We had gotten a “genuine” blue bow tie which was not pre-tied, but we had forgotten to take the time to make sure I could remember how to tie it prior to having to do it in a rush and make it to the reception on time. We downloaded some instructions from the internet, but I could just not get it tied, so I had to resort to a second option, one that was pre-tied, not having realized earlier in the day that tonight was blue dress night for Stephanie, and I was supposed to wear the color coordinated blue  bow tie. It was very frustrating since I had been able to tie them in the past, but it was not happening tonight, and I was not happy…..

None the less, with my black vest and matching pre-tied bow tie, we headed to the reception.   We happened to run into the couple we had first seen in the duty free shop at the Barcelona Cruise terminal who had informed us that the security for bringing on adult beverages was not going to be an issue. They were Mike and Barb from Canada, Halifax to be exact, and they were fun to talk to. We ended up joining them for dinner.  Since they had been on board for  the previous cruise, they had already gotten in good with one of the Head Waiters, and we got a nice table near a window. Two other men joined us, they were a “couple” cruising together from Oregon, and were really entertaining. We all ordered bottles of wine, and had a great dinner, actually staying late enough to necessitate the wait staff having to tell us to leave the dining room.   Everyone else was already gone, and we were the last ones inside. It was not that late, but I think most of the older folks go to early seating dinner, or eat early using the “personal choice” dining option, which was option for dining room we were in. We have been at dinner much later on other cruises, so it was not that we were there excessively long, at least it did not seem so.

HDR Photo of the Atrium

HDR Photo of the Atrium

After dinner, Barb, Mike, Stephanie and I went to the Princess Theater to see the entertainment, which we found out when we arrived was a violinist. This was just not the type of entertainment we were interested in, it was too slow, but great if you needed an aid to make you sleepy before turning in for the evening. We did not.  After one song, we all left and went to the Wheelhouse Bar and had a couple of drinks, talked, and listened to the music.

At about 11:30 PM, Stephanie and I headed back to our room and changed into casual clothes, picking up the camera equipment for some photos of the atrium area in the middle of the ship. It had been decorated for Christmas, as were other parts of the ship, during the port stop in Civitavecchia.  With the late hour, there were hardly any passengers in the Atrium to disrupt the photo shoot.

Afterward, it was back to the room to load up the blog postings and pictures through the ship’s internet service. Even though it was late, we have our first change of time tonight to move the clocks back one hour, so tomorrow, we will now only be 5 hours ahead of Eastern Time.

Another HDR Photo of the Atrium

Another HDR Photo of the Atrium

 

Dec 072013
 

We experienced another smooth sailing night on the Mediterranean Sea last night as we head toward Gibraltar and passage from the Mediterranean Sea into the Atlantic Ocean. According to the Captain’s daily report, we are scheduled to pass by Gibraltar tonight between 9:00 PM and 10:00 PM. This will be our third time passing through the Straits of Gibraltar, and the third time it has been at night. Maybe one day we will actually see Gibraltar during the daytime.

We were both a little slow getting going this morning after last night, we had stayed up well past our normal bed time visiting  with our new friends and taking the photos in the Atrium.  I also think we are both still adjusting to the time difference, although we did get back one hour last night, our first time change back towards Eastern Time as we cross the Ocean. Apparently, Madeira, our next port of call,  must be on a different time zone, so we are adjusting to that time zone as we head there.

We ate breakfast in the buffet once again, but tried to eat a little more healthy today, cereal, fruits and yogurt. No eggs, sausage and pastries. After breakfast, we headed to the Purser’s Desk to see if they could have someone fix Stephanie’s shoe, it was her turn for shoe problems on a formal night, like I had experienced on our last cruise. The toe strap on one of her shoes had pulled out, an easy fix at home with some white glue or epoxy, but without supplies here on the ship, it was impossible to fix ourselves. They were going to send the shoe to the “upholstery shop” for repair, and were not sure how long it might take. If need be, Stephanie has another pair of shoes that can be worn for casual nights in a pinch, but they are not really dress shoes for the next formal night on Saturday.

With the shoe issue taken care of, we spent some time walking around before going back to the room to put on our exercise clothes and head to the gym for some elliptical time for me, and treadmill time for Stephanie. This is our first visit to the gym for this cruise, but only the second day we have not been on the go, and getting our exercise walking around in ports. None the less, it was not the funnest thing we have done so far on the cruise.

After cooling down, it was time for showers, and then heading out for some lunch. Today is “fish & chips” day for lunch in one of the lounges, but we decided against going. After having just exercised, it was hard to give it all up for fried fish and french fries, so we opted for slightly healthier food from the buffet.

Sunset At Sea

Sunset At Sea

It started out as a sunny day, but soon turned cloudy, then partly cloudy. Overall, it was not a bad day, but not as nice outside as yesterday had been. The winds are still from our stern, so at least it was not windy out on deck, just cooler when the sun was not out.  We did spend a little time on the balcony later in the day, the sun was out a little more in the late afternoon. However, with the sunset being around 5:00 PM, it cools off quickly once the sun starts heading below the horizon. Of course, with us being as close to the Straits of Gibraltar, there were a lot of cargo ships entering the Mediterranean Sea, passing by us heading in the opposite direction to ports unknown.

Sunset At Sea

Sunset At Sea

We did get a fairly nice sunset from the balcony, but there was a layer of low clouds on the horizon blocking the last portion of the sun as it set below the horizon. It is nice to be able to see both the sunrise and sunset from our balcony without having to leave the room and head to the upper decks. With the sun being more southerly this time of year, and with our heading, we get both the sunrise and sunset on our side of the ship.

We did go to the dining room for dinner tonight, opting to get a table for two, and enjoy a quiet dinner together. However, since the small two person tables are only about 18 inches apart on either side, it is almost like eating with your neighbors since they are just about as close to you physically as when you were sharing one large table with other passengers. Our server Marco was very good, and Stephanie enjoyed a fajita entree and I had the prime rib. Both were excellent.

We decided to attend the show in the Princess Theater, the entertainment was a ventriloquist, based on information from Barb and Mike, who had attended the earlier show, and told us about it when we ran into them earlier heading to dinner tonight  They were with two other couples that we had also met last night, one of the men was a dentist from Miami Beach. Both of those couples had been very nice to chat with the previous evening, and once again heartily greeted us and invited us to sit with them for dinner, not knowing we had already eaten. Once they realized we had already eaten, they invited us just to visit and have dessert. We were  full, so we declined, but it was nice for them to offer. Instead, we headed to the show, which thy had attended before dinner.

The show was one of the best we have seen on a cruise. It was really funny, and they actually got two passengers up on stage, and they wore masks that basically consisted of moving mouths, similar to what a ventriloquist dummy mouth would look like. The performer used a squeeze bulb to activate their mouths and he spoke the part of their voices.  They were left to be embarrassed by whatever he said, but being good sports, they also did attempt to provide some additional animation to go along with their “dummy” roles. It was hilarious, and  both passengers did a great job playing along.

After the show, we went back to the room and made a couple of “to go” adult beverages, and headed to the Explorer’s lounge to catch the last half of a show by a lady from Ireland, who was sort of a comedian, but a better singer, mixing some comedy with songs. This was her last show, she was scheduled to get off of the ship in Madeira on Friday. She was good, but the volume was too high for the size of the room, we both agreed she was probably better the night before when she performed in the larger Princess Theater venue.

We looked in a couple of the bars to see if we could find the group from last night and earlier in the dining room, but could not. By this time it was around 10:30 PM, and it seemed that as the entertainment ended for the evening, so did about everything else on the ship, many of the lounges were empty, so we called it a night. Back at the room, we headed out to the balcony to look at the stars.   It was a really clear night, and we actually even saw a couple of shooting stars. Unfortunately, a lot of people leave their balcony lights on, and with that and the added general ship’s lighting, it is not as dark as one would like for star gazing out in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. We have tried, on past cruises, to find some really dark area on the ship to be able to reduce the ambient lighting and give us better night vision, but there is just too much lighting out on the decks, surely there for safety and security.

I will be getting up early tomorrow morning before sunrise to try and see the Comet ISON.  We are not sure it survived its passing around the sun on Thanksgiving Day since I could not get onto the internet tonight to do a search for that information. Stephanie told me to “have fun”, I guess she will be sleeping in.

Dec 072013
 

As mentioned in the previous days post, I did wake up early and go out on the balcony to look for the comet. After spending about 15-20 minutes searching the skies for the comet, but seeing nothing,  I logged onto the internet to perform a Google search to see if I could find out where to look in the early morning sky, and if the comet was even visible. Unfortunately, based on reports on the internet, the comet had mostly burned up going around the sun, and had faded so much that it is very difficult to see with the naked eye. I still was able to see 4-5 shooting stars, I think these are a few remnants from the Leonid Meteor Shower earlier in mid November, so all was not lost for my effort.

Sunrise At Sea

Sunrise At Sea

In addition, the conditions were very clear, so the pre-dawn sky was full of color, and the sunrise was very sharp once the sun finally peaked above the horizon.

Sunrise At Sea

Sunrise At Sea

I also took the time on the internet  to post some additional pictures into the photo albums, and got us up to date through December 3 on the postings. The internet works well at 5:30 AM in the morning, not too many folks are using the service at that time!!

After Stephanie got up, we went to breakfast in the buffet and then we walked to the stern of the ship just to look out at the water. We actually saw a blow spout from some type of whale that was a few hundred yards astern. It surfaced and blew about 3 more times, and then it was gone. We never saw any real portion if its body, but it was unmistakeably a large whale based on the size and height of the blow stream. We then proceeded to go back to the room and sit on our balcony, enjoying the sun and calm wind conditions. We did not stay out long because we did not want to take the time to apply sunscreen, and we were not sure how long we could be exposed without any protection, and not get burned.

We then headed off to the gym for another exercise period on the elliptical and treadmill. The temperature was a little over 70 degrees at noon, so it was the best overall weather day we have had since the day before we left home. Our forecast for tomorrow for our last port stop in Funchal, Madeira, is for partly cloudy skies and temperatures in the 68-70 degree range. The Captain even informed everyone that the ship was going to stay an additional hour in Funchal, so we will now be in port from 8:00 AM until 5:30 PM. It is always amazing that we normally see a short port stop day the day before we spend 7-8 days crossing the Atlantic Ocean.  One would think the port day could be extended since we have so many days left to make the actual crossing, surely enough to make up and hour or two.

After exercising, since it was so nice and sunny on our balcony, we did some hand washing of a few clothes items in our bathroom sink and then hung them out to dry on our clothesline that we strung outside on the balcony. Most of the clothes we washed were athletic wear, which dry very fast, but some were heavier and took a while to dry, even in the sunshine.

A lot more people spent time outside on the pool deck in the lounge chairs today, everyone was enjoying the warmer weather. It was warm when you were in the sun, and protected from the slight wind, but it quickly cooled if the sun was no longer shining on you area of the deck.

One item of peculiarity that we noticed late yesterday was that the dining area staff were no longer placing any silverware or glasses on the tables in the buffet area. Even the salt and pepper shakers had been removed from the tables, replaces with the small paper packets. When we went for breakfast, we overheard someone ask a waiter about this situation and they were told that there was apparently an outbreak of something on the ship causing stomach virus problems, and that it was being done as a precaution to help avoiding spreading any germs.  One odd thing we noticed was that although the passengers were not touching as much, the server we had at lunch, who was part time buss boy, and then became part time drink server.  For each glass of water we requested, we received a new glass, filled from a water dispenser.  They were no longer using pitchers of water for refills. But, after busing everyone else s dirty glasses at a vacated table, here comes our “clean” glasses of water in the same gloved hands that had just touched all of the dirty dishes, no washing in between.   It would have made a lot more sense to have one person only handle dirty dishes, and another person only handle clean glasses for drink service.

Relaxing Sea Day

Relaxing Sea Day

On our Balcony

On Our Balcony

Later in the afternoon, we spent some more time in the sunshine out on our balcony, relaxing in the lounge chairs.

At 6:00 PM, we headed to the Explorer’s Lounge to catch another show by the ventriloquist we had seen the night before. This was a different show, and he used one other “dummy” in addition to his main dummy named “Grandfather”. Once again, the show was really good, and as he had done the night before, he was able to get on unsuspecting volunteer to come up on stage so that he could place the dummy mouth mask on him, and proceed to completely embarrass him by saying funny things in his ventriloquist voice while making the dummy mask mouth move.  In essence, a human dummy. The entertainer had specifically asked if anyone in the audience had not seen the show the night before. Most had, and knew what was in store for them is selected, but this man had not, and paid the price by being completely humiliated. The man was a good natured participant, and added a lot of hand gestures to go with the words being placed in his fake mouth, so to speak.

Before the show had started, we saw our new friends Mike and Barb getting a seat, so Stephanie went and talked with them a little before the show started.   After the show was finished, we all got together and planned to meet for dinner in one of the lounges before heading together to dinner the Dining Room. We met them in a lounge called Crooners, and while we were taking, another group they had met from Canada came in and we introduced ourselves to them. Two of them accompanied us to dinner, making it a group of six. Dinner was good, and we had fun with our new group.

After dinner, we actually went and participated in a “game show” similar to Jeopardy. We did not win, but did a lot better than I had expected we would. Your team wrote done the answers, and took them to a judge on stage, and if correct, received fake money in the amount of the question value. Unfortunately, we did not get the correct answer on the Final Jeopardy question, and having wagered everything, ended up with nothing.

Since tomorrow is our last port of call in Funchal, Madeira, and we are getting up early to get ready to go ashore, we called it a night and headed back to our room.

Dec 082013
 

The seas were calm again last night, and we slept well before getting up at about 6:30 AM to get ready to go ashore on our last scheduled port of call in the city of Funchal, Madeira. After getting ready, we headed up to get some breakfast in the buffet. The port was small, and we were already tied up alongside the pier before we got to breakfast. The official start of the port call was 8:00 AM, so we were not in any rush even though the ship appeared to have arrived early. Unfortunately, they were not allowing anyone off of the ship until the designated departure time.

After breakfast, we gathered up our usual port stop gear and packed it into our backpacks. The plan for today is to walk into town, and eventually head over to the cable car for the ride up to Monte, a small town up in the mountains above Funchal. We had done this the last time we visited here, and the cable car is a quick and scenic way to get to the top.

Funchal Seafood Market

Funchal Seafood Market

The ship was docked about 1.5 miles from the center of town, and our plan was to walk into town since most of the shops and the cable car do not open until 9:00 AM anyway. As we were getting off of the ship, we ran into Julio and Elena, our Pisa travel partners. We walked with them into town before splitting up, they were trying to find a city bus to go to a church outside of Funchal that they had wanted to see.

Funchal 2013-4303

Seafood Ready For Purchase

We headed towards the cable car, but first stopped at the seafood/vegetable market nearby. We took some pictures of the strange fish they catch and eat here called the Espada, something that is caught in waters over 1,000 feet deep. They also had some large Swordfish and what looked to be Tuna. Stephanie visited some of the small vendor booths and bought a couple of small linen hand towels for souvenirs.

Ugly Funchal Fish - Espada

Ugly Funchal Fish – Espada

Funchal Vegetable Market

Funchal Vegetable Market

The grocery store was also nearby, so we went in and scouted around to see what they we needed to pick up later in the day on the way back to the ship. We certainly did not want to tote anything for the entire day as we planned on taking a Levada walk at the top of the mountains near Monte.

View of Port From Cable Car to Monte

View of Port From Cable Car to Monte

Since it was now after 9:00 AM, we headed over to the cable car and bought a one way ticket to the top. The views were fantastic, although we could see some of the damage from some heavy rains and flooding that occurred here in 2010. Once at the top, we walked over to the Nossa Senhora do Monte Church. We went inside for some photos, and them climbed up one of the bell towers to a balcony area for some better views of the harbor and of Funchal.

Nossa Senhora do Monte Church

Nossa Senhora do Monte Church

After that, we walked by the area where the wicker basket toboggans are leaving from for their ride down the mountain.

Inside of Church in Monte

Inside of Church in Monte

There were a couple of bus loads of cruise passengers that had taken the cable car up after us, and it appeared they were heading over to the toboggans for the ride down. We had done that the last time we were here in 2009, so we opted to do something different, to try and find the Lavada Walks that started nearby.

We had downloaded some directions and pictures from a another blog site, but still had a little bit of trouble verifying our location since we could not find one of the landmarks used in the write-up, a small chapel.

Walking Along the Lavada

Walking Along the Lavada

Some of the signage had either been replaced, or was missing, because the pictures in the write-up were different from the signs we saw, but eventually we sort of figured it out, not however, until we actually hiked over to one area, thought we were not going the right way, and hiked back.

Stephanie finally asked a woman in a ticket booth selling tickets for the nearby botanical gardens cable car, and she informed us the small chapel we were looking for had been washed away in the 2010 storm.  She pointed out the location of where it had been before the floods. We then followed the remainder of the downloaded directions, although at times, even they were a little sketchy on details.

The Lavada and Trail

The Lavada and Trail On The Right

The walks were nice, although it was a little muddy in some areas. You are basically walking along a stone channel, with an inside concrete overlay, about 2 feet wide and 3 feet deep. These channels carry the water from the mountains to various areas on the island, where it is used as drinking water.

The initial portion of the walk was on a trail that was quite steep in some areas, both uphill and then downhill. We walked for about 30 minuted before we finally found the actual lavada. You end up walking beside the water channel as it winds across the faces of the mountains. Mostly,  these channels route through forested areas.

Ship View From Lavada Walk

Ship View From Lavada Walk

Every once and a while we got a good view of the city of Funchal and of the harbor where the ship was docked. You could also tell that some of the forested areas had been damaged in the 2010 storm. There were some uprooted trees along the path, and some of the other trees looked as if a lot of the foliage was missing.

The lavada occasionally crossed over some roads, but we did not see anywhere to catch a bus back into Funchal. The instruction guide we had downloaded did not really provide us a sense of duration or distance we were traveling for us to transit the length of  the route listed on their blog.

Lavada Junction Spillway Supplying Concrete Storage Tank

Lavada Junction Spillway Supplying Concrete Storage Tank

We did see many of the referenced landmarks, of special interest was an area where a few lavadas merged together, and were mixed onto one pipeline that fed into a large open top concrete storage tank.

We were not really pressed for time, but the uncertainty of the total duration of the walk added a little bit of apprehension, reducing some of the enjoyment. We had plenty of time to get back to the ship, but it still crept into our minds, especially since we were at sea for the next several days, having no way to catch up to the ship if we happened to be late returning.

Stephanie Cleaning Off Muddy Shoes

Stephanie Cleaning Off Muddy Shoes

We finally approached another small town, and so we decided to end our journey here. It was near a landmark called the Teahouse, so we now knew where we were in relation to our downloaded instructions.  The blog write-up included  one more section of hiking, but since we did not know how much longer that section would take, we decided just to end our walk here, we had seen enough of the levadas to appreciate their beauty.

There was a bus stop near where we exited the trail, and we asked a couple who was waiting there if this bus went into Funchal. They were vacationing here from the UK, and said they had completed the same Lavada walk from Monte as we had, and that yes, the bus stopping here went to Funchal.

Trees Along The Lavada

Trees Along The Lavada

The couple told us the bus had just passed going the other way, and so they were waiting for it to return to go in the opposite direction to Funchal. We waited about 30 minutes before the bus finally arrived. They had weekly bus passes, so they got on ahead of us. When we tried to purchase tickets from the driver, he would not sell them to us, just motioned for us to get our seats. We were not sure why until about 10 minutes later when the bus stopped at what was labeled “termino”, which was the end of the line, and all of the locals riding on our bus got off.  The bus driver turned the bus around, and then shut it off.

Stephanie and I were a little concerned, but then the bus driver said “tickets”, and we asked if the bus was indeed going to Funchal. It was, and we purchased our two tickets. What had happened was that we had gotten on the bus heading downhill, which was assumed to be toward Funchal. However, it was actually going away from Funchal, and we rode “for free” to the end of the line at the “termino”, where we were then able to purchase tickets for the ride to Funchal. The couple from the UK should have gotten on the first bus they saw before we met them, it was actually the bus heading down into Funchal, but they assumed it was the bus from Funchal since it was going “uphill”.  This was verified as we passed the bus stop we got on at as we headed in the opposite direction toward Funchal. This section of the route happened to be on a small secondary road, not on the main road into Funchal. It was a little amusing once we figured it all out, and realized we were now heading back into town.

About 20 minutes later, we got off of the bus at the grocery store in downtown Funchal and went in to purchase a few items. This was going to be our last stop before the seven remaining sea days crossing the Atlantic Ocean, so we got some diet Pepsi, and some fruit juices for mixers.

Ship in Funchal Harbor

Ruby Princess in Funchal Harbor

With our backpacks full, we walked around looking at items in some of the stores. We were working our way through town in the direction of the ship, and decided to stop at a Pizza Hut for a couple of beers, and to use their free WiFi for about an hour before heading back to the ship. We got caught up on our email and Stephanie was able to finally log into her Facebook for a long awaited update and Facebook withdrawal “fix”. At about 4:00 PM, we started the 2 mile walk back to the ship. It was just across the harbor, but it was a good walking distance to get there from the town. The route along the harbor allowed us to get a few pictures of the ship along the way.

Once back on board, we unloaded our gear, and Stephanie wanted to head back out to the terminal to visit some of the vendors selling souvenirs. The ship was scheduled to have everyone on board by 5:30 PM, and it was about 4:50 PM when we got off. There was not really anything to look at from the remaining 2-3 vendors, so we headed back to the ship and took a few photos of Funchal from the upper decks of the ship before our departure.

Chips and Salsa on the Balcony

Chips and Salsa on the Balcony

On the way back to the cabin, we got some chips and salsa from the buffet and headed back to our balcony to enjoy happy hour with some adult beverages as we sailed away from Funchal. Over the next seven days, we will be sailing across the Atlantic Ocean on the long journey to Ft. Lauderdale, about 3,200 nautical miles from Funchal.

We were pretty tired and sore form today’s lavada walks, plus all of the walking to and from the ship, so we just headed to the buffet for some dinner.

We did go to the Princess Theater for a comedy show, and the comedian had been working on cruise ships for 30 years, and had a lot of funny jokes about all of the cruise lines and their individual peculiarities, as well as those of the passengers who sail the different lines. It was very entertaining. After that, we called it a night and headed back to the room.

It had been a tiring day in port. The Captain had informed us earlier, as we left Funchal, that the weather will be good until Sunday afternoon or evening, and then we will run into a low pressure system that will produce some higher winds, and some rain, then clearing sometime Monday afternoon. After that, the weather conditions were looking good for the remainder of the journey, at least for now.

To view more photos from today’s post, here is a link to the Photo Album for Funchal, or you can access it via the menu on the top right.

Funchal Panoprama

Funchal Panorama